A magical evening that combines ancient pagan and Christian traditions, celebrated in Parma and the province with rituals and traditions that are lost in antiquity: it is June 23, the night of San Giovanni.
In Parma City of Gastronomy the most common tradition is that of outdoor “tortellate”: the Parmesans meet in large tables set up outside the restaurants, in the villages, in the squares, in the streets, in the gardens and, why not, among the vineyards, to dine in company waiting to take the beneficial “rozäda äd san Zvan”, the dew of San Giovanni. Main dish of San Giovanni’s dinner are our typical “parmigiana” herb tortelli, seasoned with plenty of butter and Parmigiano Reggiano, preceded perhaps by a light appetizer based on cured meats and followed by second courses of meat or pies and typical sweets. Another very heartfelt tradition is to prepare the “nocino”, a typical liqueur made from green walnuts, with fruits harvested on the night of San Giovanni and bathed in miraculous dew.
Who in the evening of San Giovanni will be in the city or in one of the towns of the province will really be spoiled for choice among the many proposals of “tortellate” of restaurants, agriturismi and associations. The restaurants of Parma City of Gastronomy offer, for that evening, many different proposals that can satisfy all tastes:
The Antica Corte Pallavicina will offer a menu to be tasted under the stars in the courtyard of the castle, obviously the protagonists will be the tortelli di erbette and as background music, the Verdi music.
At Antica Hostaria Tre Ville, the tortellata di San Giovanni is celebrated with a typical Parmesan grand buffet and homemade tortelli.
Il Mulino di Torrechiara proposes for the night of San Giovanni, Sunday, June 23rd in the evening, tortelli d’erbetta and ricotta as a first course and menu with the typical dishes of the Parmesan tradition.
The Hosteria Bertinelli offers a special menu for the day of June 23rd on the occasion of the “tortellata di San Giovanni” with a first course formed by a trio of tortelli.
At the Il Bacher restaurant the tortellata begins in the park with a welcome aperitif and continues at the table with a menu based on cold cuts and of course tortelli d’erbetta combined with wines served and presented by the producers.
The Osteria dei Mascalzoni, in the heart of Parma, is divided into two to offer you two different kinds of tortellate: a proposal with a fixed menu served at the tables of the ancient street that hosts the osteria and an outdoor proposal in Piazza Ghiaia, surrounded by live music and markets.
In the heart of the Bassa, in Roncole Verdi, the Vecchio Mulino Pallavicino proposes a tortellata with tortelli as main dish and many other products of the Bassa.
At Podere Stuard instead the tortellata is made organic: Saturday 22 June for the whole day Podere Stuard will hosts the farmer’s market, visits to the farm and games in the farmyard. In the evening great tortellata with organic products.
At the Monte delle Vigne winery the tortellata under the stars becomes gourmet with the Parmesan delicacies prepared by Silvano Romani’s catering.
In addition to the proposals of restaurants in the city and in the province there are many tortellate in the streets, in the squares and in the neighborhoods organized by associations and pro loco.